More than 30 years ago on a quest for spiritual enlightenment, the Beatles came to a small town in the Himalayan foothills and found what John Lennon described as a "blissful Butlins".

Their brief visit indelibly fixed transcendental meditation, yoga and gurus in the western consciousness, and since then Rishikesh has become the yoga capital of the world. A huge number of foreign visitors still come to study in ascetic ashrams - religious retreats - and you can even learn yoga in opulent five-star luxury.

In the bustling streets, wild looking, red-painted men try to press red-dots to your head for a rupee. Trinket shops abound under the watchful eye of huge plastic statues of Shiva.

Many of the ashrams - despite their outward claims of renouncing worldly goods - also hanker after commercial opportunities, flogging a diluted yoga experience to unsuspecting foreigners. Many leave disappointed.

But despite the tat and the inevitable Indian poverty, Rishikesh can still offer a calm and contemplative antidote to the travails of the western world, if you know where to look.

Ashrams, yoga and meditation

Standards vary. Some gurus are charlatans, but those offering the tougher programmes tend to provide the best and most authentic yoga experience. Expect tight rules about smoking, alcohol and diet. You should stay at least 15 days and be prepared for 5am starts and curfews.

Prices vary from donations through to about 200 rupees a night for very basic accommodation and simple veggie food. Yoga and meditation classes prices vary from donations to 100 rupees.

Shivananda Ashram

One of the most famous and best regarded ashrams in Rishikesh, it was set up to provide spiritual and medical succour. You won't find much practical yoga, but there is still no better place to gain insight into yoga's philosophical and spiritual teachings. You need to book in writing a month in advance.

Divine Life Society, PO Shivanandanagar 249192 District Tehri, Garhwal, Uttaranchal, India (tel: +1364 430040).

Omkarananda Ashram

Beginner courses are run in the ashram when there is sufficient demand. Otherwise, you go to the hatha yoga classes at its new centre down the road at the Omkarananda Ganga Sadan. It also offers classical Indian music and dance.

Lakshman Jhula Rd, just above the Yoga Niketan (tel: +1364 430883).

Yoga Niketan Ashram

One of the more tranquil ashrams, set on a hill just above the Ganges amid beautiful woods that fill with fireflies each evening. Programmes last a minimum of 15 days. The iyengar hatha yoga teachings come highly recommended. Also an in-depth programme of meditation and spiritual teachings.

Lakshman Jhula Rd (tel: + 1364 430227).

Yoga Study Centre

This is not an ashram but has a very good reputation for teaching an authentic form of iyengar hatha yoga. Courses last three weeks, usually in February, April and September.

Koyalgati (tel: + 1364 431316).

Where to stay

Apart from the ashrams, decent accommodation is pretty thin on the ground.

Ananda

Set in the grounds of an old Maharaja's palace 10 miles above Rishikesh, this stunning spa hotel is run by the one of the best hotel chains in the world. The manicured lawns, pool and gorgeous rooms are an untypical indulgence. There's a great daily programme of yoga, meditation as well as ayurvedic massage on tap. Expensive and aseptic, but if you want a splurge, this is one of the best places in India to do it. The drawback is that it is cut off from the town and the food is definitely overpriced.

The Palace Estate, Narenda Nagar, Tehri Garhwal, Uttaranchal (tel: 00 800 28283838, anandaspa.com ). Rooms start at US$249 per night; three-night two-person packages, including two treatments per person, transfers from Haridwar, yoga and breakfast, start at US$1,000.

Yoga Niketan Guesthouse

Attached to the excellent Yoga Niketan ashram, this friendly guesthouse has simple rooms with balconies offering wonderful views over the Ganges. The ashram's programme of yoga and meditation is included in the room rate. The noise from the adjacent main road can be annoying.

Lakshman Jhula Rd (tel +1364 433537). 300 rupees+.

Government Tourist Bungalows

Set in tranquil grounds, the basic rooms/bungalows offer the best value - go for the upstairs ones with balconies. Service is lacking and some rooms are very pokey.

Rishilok (tel: +1364 430373). 200 rupees +.

Where to eat

While there are the usual run of dhabbas (small Indian restaurants and chai houses) offering veg curry, rice, roti and dhal, variety is limited. Note that Rishikesh is strictly vegetarian and alcohol is forbidden.

Chotiwala

A big bloke with a ponytail and body paint sits outside and rings a bell so you can't miss this place. Good food, massive menu, decent service and a nice upstairs balcony from where you can view the action below.

Near Swarg Ashram, just over Ramjhula Bridge. Thalis - set vegetarian menus - start at 40 rupees.

Madras

Small place offering the best masala dosas in town. Also great breakfasts - try the stuffed paratha, curd and pickle - and enormous fruit salads. Great lunch spot.

Just off Lakshman Jhula Road near Shivananda Ashram. Dosas start at 30 rupees.

Neelams

Sikh-run, offering excellent western and Indian food. It can get very full but the macaroni is worth a visit after endless dhal and rice.

Just off Haridwar Road, near the bridge before the town centre. Plate of macaroni starts at 50 rupees.

What to do

Dip in the Ganges

Wash away all your sins in what is reputed to be the cleanest spot in India's holiest river. Remember to be very modest when you climb in or you could cause a riot - Indian women tend to jump in fully dressed. Anoint the head with a small splash first.

Watch the Aarti

Every evening in Rishikesh, just as the sun goes down, devotees make fire offerings to the Ganges by setting adrift candles on palm leaves. Best viewed at the Parmath ghat just in front of the big, blue, plastic statue of Shiva.

Getting there: Emirates (Dnata Travel UK 020-7932 9901, emirates.com) flies daily via Dubai to Delhi from Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester and Birmingham from £465 plus taxes return. From Delhi to Rishikesh, the bus takes 7-10hrs (250 rupees ); a taxi takes five hours (1,500-2,000 rupees). The train to Haridwar takes 4hrs 30mins (500 rupees) followed by a taxi (45mins and 320 rupees). All ground transport, transfers, bookings etc can be arranged by Welcome Travel, 209 Skipper Corner, 88 Nehru Place, New Delhi 110019, India (tel: +11 6416542, welcometravel.com).

Further information: from India Tourism London, 7 Cork Street, London, W1X 2LW (020-7437 3677, indiatouristoffice.org).

Country code: 00 91.

Time difference: GMT+5.5hrs.

Flight time London to Delhi: 10 hrs.

£1 = 68 rupees.

Best time to visit: October- March.