Juliet Rix 

Common ground

Juliet Rix explores Britain's newest national park, which has hardly changed in 1,000 years.
  
  

Horses in the New Forest
Hoofing around ... horses have grazed in the New Forest for centuries. Photo: Britainonview.com Photograph: Britainonview.com

Although the New Forest has just been made a national park, the area has had special protection for over 900 years - ever since William the Conqueror made it a royal hunting forest. It has changed remarkably little in that time; today it is said to be the largest remaining open heath land in northern Europe, spanning 150 square miles. Commoners (local landowners with ancient rights) still set their ponies, cattle and (seasonally) pigs loose to graze - some 5,000 of them in all - which helps to preserve the ancient lowland landscape of heath, bogs, woodlands and streams.

National park status should not bring major changes, but it will prevent the encroachment of conurbations around its edge, and guarantee that the area will be protected far into the future.

What to see and do

There are no real commercial attractions - the forest itself is the thing. There is something wonderful about stepping out of your tent or hotel to find a free-roaming pony (or six) chewing the grass (or the camp food you forgot to put away). And looking beyond it to a vast expanse of countryside, untouched by modern agriculture: ancient, beautiful and accessible.

Walking: The forest is a mix of woodland, open heath, coast, small towns and villages, so there's plenty of easy walking available.

Cycling: The Forest boasts over 100 miles of cycle trails. Bikes can be hired next to Brockenhurst station. Direct trains arrive here from all over Britain and the New Forest Tour bus has a cycle trailer, so keen cyclists can leave the car at home.

· Cyclexperience, 01590 624204, cyclex.co.uk. Adult bikes from £10 a day, children's £6, helmets free.

Riding: If you prefer traditional four-legged New Forest transport, New Park Manor Equestrian Centre offers everything from half-hour lessons (£14) to pub or picnic rides (four hours including stop for lunch, £42-£45). The centre is based at New Park Manor, Charles II's favourite hunting lodge, now a hotel and restaurant.

· 01590 623919, newparkmanor hotel.co.uk.

Hurst Point and Castle: Walk the 1 miles along this spit of shingle to Hurst Castle perched on its tip. Or take the boat. Built by Henry VIII, this well-preserved castle was used to imprison Charles I before his trial and expanded during the Napoleonic wars. It defended the Solent for over 400 years and has great views towards the Isle of Wight. At the base of Hurst Point is a bridge where kids go crabbing, and a van sells delicious real ice cream.

01590 642500, hurst- castle.co.uk Castle open 10am-5pm daily £3 adult, £1.80 child. Keyhaven ferry: hourly, half-hourly in school holidays. Adults £2.30 (£3.80 return), children £1.70 (£2.30).

Beaulieu is one of the prettiest villages in the forest and forms part of the estate owned by Lord Montagu's family since the 16th century. He lives in Palace House, the 14th-century former abbey gatehouse, which is open to the public along with the remains of the 13th-century abbey. The Beaulieu ticket also includes the National Motor Museum displaying some 250 historic vehicles, as well as smaller attractions.

· 01590 612345, beaulieu .co.uk. Open daily 10am-5/6pm. Adults £14, children 5-12 £7.25, 13-17 £8.25.

Where to stay and eat

On the cheap: The New Forest is perfect for camping. Close to both coast and inland forest, Holmsley Campsite (Forestry Commission Campsites, 0131-314 6505, forestholidays.co.uk; pitch and four people around £12 per night, kids' tent £4) has 700 pitches, showers, a shop, a take-away with surprisingly tasty food, a large children's playground and ranger-led wildlife walks. Camp on the edge of it and you are very much part of the forest - either by the woods or looking over a wide flat area good for children's games, bikes and kites.

A cut above: The New Forest has some 150 B&Bs. Try The Old Cottage (01425 477956), Lindford, a 17th-century thatched cottage with inglenook fireplace. Three ensuite rooms from £25-£30pp per night. For other options, call the New Forest B&B vacancy service (01590 689000). To eat, Simply Poussin (01590 623063) in Brockenhurst is the "less dressed" sibling of the highly regarded Le Poussin (see below). Two-course lunch £10. For tea and sandwiches, try The Old Bakehouse , Beaulieu (01590 612777), or The Old Station Tearooms, Holmsley (01425 402468), on one of the cycle tracks.

Top of the tree: Le Poussin (023-8028 2944, lepoussin.co .uk) is a 19-room Georgian country house hotel with an award-winning restaurant. £45-£110pp per night B&B, £75-£135pp per night half-board. The Montagu Arms in Beaulieu (01590 612324, montaguarms hotel.co.uk) is a traditional establishment known for its attentiveness to guests. Double room from £160 B&B, £190 with dinner.

Visitor centres: Lymington 01590 673990, Lyndhurst 023 8028 2269, Ringwood 01425 470896.
Further information:
thenewforest.co.uk

 

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