Hannah Pool 

The new black

Hannah Pool: The cosmetics market can be divided into two sectors: premium and high street. While Asian women have some choice in the premium end, there is nothing for them on the high street.
  
  


"It's something every Asian girl thinks of doing," says Farah Nàz, the brains behind a new cosmetics brand for Asian women, EX1, a range of foundations and powders (0845 456 2738, ex1cosmetics.com). "I did it out of desperation. I was living on the outskirts of London and having to commute to buy make-up. My local town centres were Watford and Harrow, and there was nothing there for me."

The cosmetics market can be divided into two sectors: premium and high street. While Asian women have some choice in the premium end, with brands such as Mac and Prescriptives, there is nothing for them on the high street. "I'd go into a chemist or supermarket," says Nàz, "and there'd be at least four or five ranges for Caucasian skin, and then you'd get one product on the end that was supposed to cover everyone else - black, Asian, Chinese, whatever."

The main difference between Nàz's range and the high-end ones that do cater for Asian women is her increased use of yellow pigment, which, Nàz says, is where Asian women's make-up needs differ. "Due to the lack of foundations, Asian women tend to use products that are too pink, so when they apply them they end up looking grey or mask-like, and if they try to go darker they end up looking too orange."

Ruby Hammer, of Ruby & Millie, agrees. "Culturally, Asian women tend to use their base not only to smooth skin tone, but to lighten it, too," she says. "It is extremely important that your foundation matches your skin colour, and especially avoid going paler than your natural skin tone. Look for foundations with a yellow tone to brighten skin. Women with very dark skin should use a yellow-toned foundation with a hint of red, otherwise skin can look dull."

EX1 may have been born out of frustration, but in terms of packaging, quality and price, I was impressed. This is probably as much to do with Nàz's scientific background (she studied biochemistry) as what she describes as her mission to help Asian women move away from "that matted, 80s, ghost-like look".

 

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