A winter's morning in Dorset. Walking boots crunch on the hoarfrost as friend Cindy and I tramp out of the village of Evershot and through Melbury Park. A low winter sun casts a brilliant glow through near-naked trees. Deer look up and stare from a safe distance. Following numbered directions on our smart, laminated walking notes, provided by a company called Foot Trails, we press on along muddy paths, across stiles and gates into field after frozen field, and occasionally along a lane or through a farmyard cacophonous with dogs.
Foot Trails is the idea of husband and wife team David and Alison Howell, who have devised a series of walking weekends in Dorset so that when townies like us fancy an outdoorsy time followed by pints in front of a fire, all we have to do is call up and book either a guided or, in our case, self-guided itinerary. Maps, suggested lunch stops, B&Bs - it's all sorted out for you.
We've dawdled so much in the morning we almost miss lunch at The Fox Inn at Corscombe. There are no seconds to spare before last orders when we screech in, but the food's just great, from my simple ploughman's of ripe Somerset brie with a garnish of spinach leaves in truffle oil to Cindy's pricey but delicious pan-fried gilthead bream with confit of salmon and fresh veg. Best of all is the sticky toffee pudding - well we need something to keep out the cold - there's another five miles to do.
Stopping at St Andrew's church in West Chelborough, Cindy can't resist a gentle pull on the bell ropes which hang in the porch. Ding. We run off, giggling.
At our overnight stop, The Queens Arms, at Corton Denham, we want to turn the heating up and the lighting down (it's one of those "contemporary refurb" pubs), and dinner isn't a patch on lunch at the Fox, but thank goodness the beds are just great. Breakfast next morning - en famille at a long table with all the other guests, is less comfortable. Everyone pretends they aren't listening to everyone else's conversations. Well we are English.
· Foot Trails (foottrails.co.uk, 01747 861851) offers a wide variety of two-night self-guided walking trips from £190pp, including B&B. Guided options also available for those who want to learn more about the area in which they are staying. More walking ideas from naturesouthwest.co.uk.
