After months of critical media coverage and the so-called size zero debate, the British Fashion Council took its first big step yesterday into examining the problem of eating disorders in the fashion world.

Responding to "concerns about the health of models at London Fashion Week", the council set up what it termed the model health inquiry, chaired by Lady Kingsmill, a Labour peer and former deputy chairwoman of the Monopolies and Mergers Commission, with industry representatives plus medical and eating disorder experts.

The inquiry was well received. The Eating Disorders Association said: "We particularly welcome involvement of someone with such an established reputation as Lady Kingsmill."

Culture secretary Tessa Jowell said: "The industry has a responsibility to look after its models, and must remember the influence it has on the health and self-esteem of millions more."

The findings will be available to be incorporated into the next fashion week in September. The council has been criticised for its apparent inaction, but its chief executive Hilary Riva rejected the suggestion that a taskforce, as opposed to immediate steps, looks like a soft option.

Madrid's fashion week was praised for banning dangerously ill models from the catwalk. Milan said it would look at the matter but, contrary to widespread reports, did not take any legal steps.