Winning question: I am always hearing conflicting stories about sunscreen. On the one hand, we're not supposed to leave the house without it - no matter what the season or the weather - and then another study says that sunscreens contain chemicals that, in combination with the sun's rays, become twice as toxic as they are alone. I try to use 'natural' sunscreens, and end up looking like a ghost! I'm truly confused. Please enlighten me.
Michaela Brough
I'm not surprised you're confused. To some extent we have all been guinea pigs for the changing science involved in skincare in the last couple of decades. A lot has evolved and the thinking on this subject keeps changing. One thing is for sure - the sun's rays cause damage and ageing to the skin - so you do need protection but, realistically, not all day, every day and more exfoliation and thorough cleansing is necessary to take off the sunscreens when you are safe and sheltered.
If you are sensible, not a sunbather and do not spend a lot of time gardening or playing an outdoor sport then I think you can judge when and if you might need it all the time. I certainly don't put it on every day. That said, when I do wear a sunscreen (mainly for outdoor sport) I wear a dermatologically approved one like La Roche Posay, Anthelios range. (Not expensive but you have to get it by mail order from Ireland: Hickey's pharmacy in Dublin, tel: 00 353 16790467 or www.laroche-posay.com)
I also rate non-chemical sunscreens like Dr Hauschka and Environ, which rely on titanium dioxide as the dominant component of the SPF number. I also find them less irritant than other brands. And I wear a very high factor - never less than SPF15; more for sport. Newest and best sunscreen formulations are so refined that the ghost-like factor, as you describe it, is really a thing of the past, and should not be a problem.
There are important areas like the backs of the hands that can get forgotten. 'A' rays (the ones that age the skin, but where the damage done doesn't show immediately, as in the 'B' or burning rays) can do their worst, even through the car windscreen or office window, so make sure you choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that has both UVA and UVB protection. New research from the University of California suggests that some of the approved sunscreens do not stay on the surface of the skin but are absorbed and then can generate oxidative damage, whereas products with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide do stay on the surface of the skin and are not absorbed. So, as an easy rule, I would look for these two ingredients. No sunscreen can prevent 100 per cent of the rays from penetrating, so free radicals will always occur with exposure for only a short time. It's time for big hats and sitting in the shade I'm afraid. Environs' RAD Antioxidant Sunscreen SPF16 costs £15.95, available from beauty salons nationwide (stockists: 020 8450 2020). Dr Hauschka's suncare range, Sunscreen Lotion SPF 15 costs £10 (stockists: 01386 792642).
I am 41 and my skin is in good condition largely due to the fact that I started wearing sunscreen every day at 29. However, I sometimes have a bad reaction to certain sunscreens after wearing them for a few hours. I cannot wear brand moisturisers containing an SPF; all the brands I have tried cause breakouts. I currently use Ella Bache's Sportsbloc (it has never caused me to break out) but it is a bit greasy to wear under make-up. What do you recommend?
Lesley Devlin
Lots of people react to sunscreens but without a detailed knowledge of your skin's history, it is quite difficult to know what could be wrong. It could be just one ingredient of a sunscreen or moisturiser that is causing the problems and not necessarily the dominant protective component. It could also be synthetic perfume in any product that has proved to cause irritation. Or it could be that you are layering too many products on top of each other onto your skin - a somewhat stripping cleanser which can change your pH balance, followed by a moisturiser with 'actives' and then the sunscreen and finally foundation, which might have both synthetic perfume and chemicals in the formulation. Also, it is a good idea to leave some time for each layer to sink in. It is very important to exfoliate and cleanse thoroughly if you are using a sunscreen every day. Having said that, I find that the three brands above are gentle and effective. Perhaps try one of those? Incidentally, the Ella Bache, 01753 880 537; www.ellabache.com; £29 for 75ml is now available at Selfridges.
Can you suggest a natural fake tan for the face during winter months? Also if I use it on a regular basis, will it block my pores?
Joanne Coles
I am quite a fan of Rimmel's Sun Shimmer (available at Boots and other good pharmacies for £4). It doesn't smell too bad and gives a light colour. At the other end of the scale, I also rate Chanel's Soleil Identite (£20.50, stockists: 020 7493 3836). And there is Clarins Radiance Plus Self Tanning Cream Gel (£23.50, stockists: 0800 036 3558). And yes, fake tanners do tend to clog your pores if you use them too often, and it is very important to cleanse and exfoliate thoroughly. Why not warm up your complexion by brushing on a subtle matte bronzer instead?
Kathy's hot products of the month
Glow blushers
I'm just back from Japan and have stocked up on my favourite brands there. Both are make-up-artist brands and have produced gorgeous peachy-tan blushers for a sun-kissed glow. RMK's SS07 RMK-W Cheeks in 01 Pink & White Soft Pink £18 (pictured in case) stockists: 0207 529 4790. Shu Uemura's Blusher Glow On in Pink 30 £16 (below, as powder) stockists: 0207 240 7635.
· Kathy Phillips is beauty director of Condé Nast Asia. Author of four books, she has her own critically acclaimed aromatherapy range, This Works. If you have a beauty question, send an email to observer.woman@observer.co.uk. The best one will receive a product from This Works, Kathy Phillips's range (www.thisworks.com)