Martin Wainwright 

Britain’s top 10 coastal walks

From windy clifftop scrambles to seaside strolls, Martin Wainwright's coastal walks all have one thing in common, a healthy dose of sea air.
  
  

Dunstanburgh castle, Northumberland, UK
Coastal look-out ... see dramatic views of Dunstanburgh castle on the Nothumberland coastal path. Photograph: Lee Frost/Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis Photograph: Lee Frost/Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis

1. Pittenweem to Elie, Fife

Six miles one way.
Buses hourly.
fifecoastalpath.co.uk

I've always wanted to visit Pittenweem just because of the name, and the Fife Coastal Path is a good additional reason. The section between the town and Elie includes two ruined castles plus good rockpools whose investigation for mini marine beasts may well distract you from going all the way. If you do make the distance, other rewards are the finely restored windmill and associated saltpans at St Monans and of course "Pittenweem, Pittenweem, Every fisher laddies' dream ..." You have go to find out why.

2. Craster to Dunstanburgh, Northumberland

Six-mile circuit
Bus to Craster
Further information

Craster has the country's best kippers, so this could be a good post-breakfast hike. The seacliffs are excellent and the ruins of Dunstanburgh castle summon up every possible image of Macbeth, Richard the Lionheart and all those other mighty chaps. Find particularly interesting birdlife on the cliffs and at Newton beach and Newton Pool nature reserve. Lots of interesting plants and geology too, helpfully described by the National Trust which owns most of the land.

3. Boggle Hole to Robin Hood's Bay, North Yorkshire

Three miles one way.
Parking above Boggle Hole, bus to RHB
clevelandway.co.uk

Boggle Hole is a lovely and often amazingly unfrequented cove compared with always bustling Baytown just up the coast. There's a youth hostel in the narrow ravine and the cliff or beach walks south to Ravenscar are a great alternative. It is essential to know tide times if using the beach, which makes the most fascinating of three ways of getting to Robin Hood's Bay. This is one of the UK's premier 'fossil coasts' and splitting loose chunks of rock will often reveal an ammonite. The clifftop path is clear if a little over-fenced but the disused railway half a mile inland is lovely for a round trip.

4. Burnham Overy Staithe to Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk

Eight miles
CoastHopper bus
nationaltrail.co.uk/PeddarsWay/index.asp

If the sands of Holkham beach are good enough for the Royal family, picnicking from nearby Sandringham, then the rest of us should be OK. This walk begins from the lovely old windmill at Burnham which curiously used to stand at the end, in Wells. They moved it in the early 1800s. The big beach is almost seven miles of sand with sea lavender, dark green fritillary butterflies, peregrine falcons and just inland are the glories of Holkham Hall. Remember Gwynneth Paltrow all alone by the breakers at the end of Shakespeare in Love? It wasn't Hawaii - it was here.

5. Seven Sisters and Beachy Head, East Sussex

Eight miles
Buses and parking
sevensisters.org.uk

The classic white-cliffs walk with lots of variations, going either way from Birling Gap which lies between the Sisters and the Head. Best start for buses or parking is the Seven Sisters country park at Exceat, then past the Golden Galleon pub (a pleasant start and/or finish) along a footpath across downland to the stunning cliffs. Turn right for a bathe at Cuckmere Haven, as sweet as its name, or left for the Gap and then up to the old lighthouse on Beachy Head. Peep, extremely carefully, at the modern one on the rocks far below. The keepers only get French terrestrial TV because the British signal beams from the clifftop way above their aerial.

6. Durdle Door & White Nothe circular, Dorset

Seven miles
Bus and parking
southwestcoastpath.com

This walk starts and finishes at Lulworth Cove which is well-organized for transport and tourism, with cafes and a castle when you've finished with the coast. Don't expect to rush though. The switchback takes in the romantic arch of Durdle Door, where dropping to the beach means a climb back up the same way, but it's worth it. Next stop is well-named Scratchy Bottom and then more rollercoastering to Swyre Head, Batis Head and the obelisk navigation beacon and coastguard cottages at White Nothe (which really does mean 'white nose' – someone ancient must have lisped). You can circle back inland through gentle countryside at Dagger's Gate and Newlands Farm.

7. Hartland Quay to Hartland Point, Devon

Six-mile circular walk
Bus at Hartland, parking near quay
southwestcoastpath.com

Very fine rocky shores are the target on this wild stretch of coast, where vile weather can actually make the whole experience more romantic. The quay is a pretty little spot, with Hartland Abbey behind dating back to 1157 and noisy with peacocks. Then it's all up and down along a three-mile switchback to the lighthouse at Hartland Point. The big grey lump out to sea is Lundy Island. You can wend back inland via Titchberry, Hartland village and other sources of cream-teas.

8. Stackpole Head, Pembrokeshire

Six-mile circular walk
Coastal Cruiser bus, parking
pcnpa.org.uk

One of the finest stretches of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, this takes in spectacular eroded limestone cliffs and the peaceful loveliness of Barafundle Bay. Bosherston Lily ponds – best in June – are an unexpected extra and the wild flora and fauna en route are terrific throughout. Start at Stackpole Quay, once a limestone harbour, now National Trust, and simply follow the cliffs south to the Head. It's back the way you came but who minds another dip at Barafundle?

9. Hilbre Island, Wirral

Three-mile circular walk
Train, bus, parking
hilbreisland.org.uk

An exciting venture into the world of migrating birds and grey seals, with strict adherence to waymarking and tidal times essential. Hilbre is the biggest of three islets at the tip of the Wirral peninsular, reached from Dee Lane slipway in West Kirby when the tide is out. Times are clearly posted here with details of when you must leave Hilbre to get back safe and dry. You can stay on the island over high water, but that means being marooned for five hours with little shelter. Apart from abundant birdlife, the Hilbre Telegraph lookout station has been renovated by the Friends of Hilbre and is open on selected dates – which are good to choose, to benefit from the volunteers' knowledge and enthusiasm. Always keep to the marked route via Little Eye and Little Hilbre.

10. Elgol to Loch Coruisk, Isle of Skye

15 miles
Parking, bus, boat
walking.visitscotland.com

This is a long walk in the heart of the Cuillin mountains, craggy scenery of great grandeur surrounding a lonely sea loch. The distance is twice as long if you attempt a round trip, putting it in the Iron Man class. The best course is to get a boat in from Elgol and then walk back via Camasunary. Check weather conditions because the stream at Camasunary can rise too high to ford, forcing a long detour. The "bad step", a slanting slab above Loch Coruisk, is intimidating to some and other stretches of the walk are rough underfoot. Not for novices who can take the boat back while you march to rejoin them overland.

· The Coast to Coast Walk by Martin Wainwright is published by Aurum Press, £12.99. Buy it at the Guardian bookshop

 

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