Alf Alderson 

Ice climbing

It's not the most natural of places to find yourself - pinned to a frozen waterfall with only six prongs of hardened steel holding you in place. But the satisfying "thunk" of your axe and crampon points biting into the ice as you ascend is surpassed only by the utter exhilaration of succeeding on your chosen route.
  
  


Thrill rating 8/10

Danger rating 9/10

Fitness rating 9/10

In a nutshell ...

It's not the most natural of places to find yourself - pinned to a frozen waterfall with only six prongs of hardened steel holding you in place. But the satisfying "thunk" of your axe and crampon points biting into the ice as you ascend is surpassed only by the utter exhilaration of succeeding on your chosen route. As the sun glints off the hard, blue translucent surface on which you're suspended, you can rest assured that this is about as extreme as outdoor adventure gets.

What's the buzz?

Ice climbing is tough work, but it's about technique as much as brute strength. And there's something quite surreal in knowing that the surface up which you're clambering was once, and will become again, free-flowing water. The sense of achievement on any climb, whatever your skill level, is always immense. Let's face it, not too many people have climbed a frozen waterfall or a snow gully.

Thrill a minute?

You'll be thrilled from your first move to your last. When it all comes right, ice climbing is totally compelling and utterly satisfying. And when things get dicey - say, you can't get a good axe placement - "thrilling" doesn't do it justice. Let's just say it wouldn't do any harm to take a change of underwear.

Adrenaline peak

This is likely to come on the "crux" move - the most testing part of the climb. If you make this, you'll have the route mastered, with one more adrenaline peak to come - when you reach the top and look down on the glittering prize that lies beneath you.

Where to do it

The Scottish Highlands are one of the spiritual homes of world ice climbing, with fantastic routes varying from frozen icefalls to deep, dark gullies on Ben Nevis, Creag Megaidh and Glencoe, in the Cairngorms and Grampian mountains, and in the remote Torridon region. The best way to learn the basics is to take a course - Alpha Mountaineering offers these at various locations in the Scottish Highlands. South of the border, the Lake District and Snowdonia usually have ice routes a few times each winter; and if it gets really cold - well, I once did an ice climb above a Pembrokeshire beach ...

Who can do it?

Rock climbers and scramblers will take to it best, but you don't have to be a climber to master the basics relatively quickly. You do, however, need to be reasonably strong and fit - bear in mind that at times your entire body weight may be supported by a combination of a few small pointy bits of metal and whichever limbs those points are attached to!

What to take

Full winter clothing: it gets cold out there (although not when you're climbing). Ski wear is ideal. Axes, crampons, helmets, ropes etc will all be provided on a course. Don't forget your camera, too - this is not an average day in the hills.

Typical prices

An introductory course costs around £160 for one-to-one instruction, £180 for two and £200 for three or more.

Impress your pals

Ice climbs are graded from I to VII. You'll start off with a grade I climb - essentially just a steep snow slope or gully - but if you become good enough to climb grade VII, then expect to encounter overhangs, the risk of avalanche and rock falls and possibly even overnight "bivvies", when you could be suspended from the climb on slings - ideally in the warmest sleeping bag money can buy.

YouTube searchwords 'jon on ben nevis'

Good links

aphamountaineering.co.uk

rockandice.net

g2outdoor.co.uk/winteractivities

 

Leave a Comment

Required fields are marked *

*

*