Over the last five years I've visited more than 50 of the UK's more affordable wellbeing retreats, enduring more than my fair share of uninspiring veggie meals, old-fashioned decor, tiny beds and dusty crystals – even in places where I've encountered expert therapists and teachers with integrity.
Littleton Mill is refreshingly different. Like Tilton House in Sussex and the Grange by the Sea on the Isle of Wight (see panel), this converted 17th-century water mill which opened in May this year is part of a new breed of retreat where you can relax in comfort without having to pay silly prices or confront anything too alternative – unless you really want to.
Tucked away in a tiny hamlet of the Wiltshire countryside, it is surrounded by a large garden; the only sound the gentle chug of the water mill.
The sun was out when we arrived, so we sat on the terrace chatting to the owners. Melissa Kendall, co-founder of healthy holiday company Jiva Healing, bought the mill as a wreck last year with her husband Richard for the cost of their two-bedroom London flat. As well as their family home, it is now the UK base for group and bespoke wellbeing breaks.
Mel and Jiva co-founder Rebecca Andrist, a nutritionist, use the Mill as the UK venue for the detox and healthy eating retreats they've been running in India and Europe for the past few years. Aimed at anyone who's been feeling sluggish, the detox breaks range from a full-on body cleanse using juice fasting, to milder healthy eating breaks focused around cookery lessons. Both breaks include daily yoga, treatments, plenty of down time and food-for-thought talks on happiness and eco-friendly living.
Other experts run sessions on meditation, Ayurvedic cooking and Thai massage, weekends for pregnant women looking to destress, and workshops on how to live a more eco-friendly life. If you want to come alone, like we did, Mel will tailormake a retreat that draws on these different themes and therapies.
Richard and Mel believe that looking after the environment is as important as looking after yourself. The property is run on renewable energy generated from a hydroelectric turbine and wood-pellet boiler. The couple are preparing to grow as much of their own food as possible – right now they use a mix of their own veg, local and Sainsbury's organic.
Late afternoon, and former dancer turned yoga teacher and therapist Teresa Montano takes us through a mellow but energising yoga class. The high-beamed workshop space has oak floors and French windows overlooking a brook strewn with lily pads. While I hold a position, I breathe in the heady fragrance of lilies – a welcome change to the waft of sandalwood joss sticks at many retreats.
We hook up with our hosts again over a communal supper of veggie sushi, eaten in Mel's expansive kitchen. The seaweed wraps of brown rice, raw pepper and carrot taste with avocado, wasabi and lemon dip and a dressing made with tahini, tamari and orange are far more imaginative than the veggie soups and lasagnes I've eaten elsewhere.
It becomes obvious during our weekend that Mel and her team might be passionate about health, but they're not dogmatic, which may explain why her retreats attract such an eclectic crowd. As well as he
alth-conscious but stressed-out single women, guests have included Mel's builder, who has recently quit smoking, an 85-year-old writer, a mother and daughter and a couple trying for a baby.
We sleep soundly that night in our bedroom which has large windows with garden views, a decent-sized, just-firm-enough bed and soothing chalky blue walls. The next morning, I wander the 10 acres of grounds before a veggie breakfast of local farm eggs and mushrooms cooked with rosemary. After breakfast we walk along the nearby Kennet and Avon canal. The path is untaxing, the views of flat countryside tranquil. We stop by a lock and I fall asleep, totally relaxed. To ensure I stay that way, Mel has arranged a Thai massage by Ralf Marzen, who usually caters to stressed city folk in London, and who will run the mill's meditation retreats.
Crucially for a wellbeing retreat, everyone we meet over our weekend turns out to be like Ralf: down to earth, easy company and mellow enough to leave us alone when we need. Which is why we leave calm and contented, and why we'll be back.
• 07786 363553, littletonmill.co.uk. The next retreats are a detox and rejuvenate yoga weekend (8-10 Jan) and an Ayurveda and yoga weekend (19-21 Feb). Courses cost from £250-£300pp for a three-day, two-night retreat in a shared room, £400-£450pp in a single room or £150-£200 non-residential (accommodation is also available in nearby B&Bs), including all meals and classes. Tailored retreats also available.
Three more healthy breaks
Tilton House, Firle, East Sussex
A large and lovely Georgian house with mature gardens, views of the South Downs and rooms filled with colour and natural light. Enjoy yoga, creative writing and sculpture retreats, or chill out in the self-catering annexe.
• 01323 811570, tiltonhouse.co.uk. From £85 per room per night, courses from £65 per day.
The Retreat at Witherdens Hall, Wingham, Kent
Two self-catering cottages in the converted barns of a family home with airy interiors and stylish furniture. Hostess Louise can organize reiki, one-to-one meditation, organic pharmacy facials, massage, aromatherapy and acupuncture with local therapists.
• 01227 720543, witherdenshall.co.uk. From £150 per cottage for two nights, treatments from £30 per hour.
The Grange, Shanklin, Isle of Wight
A 19th-century country house with sea views, contemporary art and a sitting room with an open fire. Singing, dancing and creative writing courses are available plus life coaching and yoga.
• 01983 867644, thegrangebythesea.com. B&B from £40pp per night, courses from £75 per day.
Caroline Sylger Jones is the editor of queenofretreats.com