On the fishmonger's slab, so much either raises questions of sustainability, costs a fortune, or both. But cheap, fleshy mussels, in their sleek blue-black shells, come with a scorecard of ticks as long as your arm.
Most of the mussels we eat these days are cultivated on ropes suspended from floating rafts in clean waters. They plump up naturally on plankton, converting it into nutritious meaty flesh. Farmed mussels are environmentally benign, and some research suggests their cultivation may have an overall beneficial effect on the marine ecosystem. On the plate, mussels are super-satisfying, and can always be relied on to bring full-bodied flavour to the table.
Why are mussels good for me?
Mussels have the most impressive nutritional profile of all shellfish. They contain high levels of highly desirable long chain fatty acids EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid). These fats have many beneficial effects, including improving brain function and reducing inflammatory conditions, such as arthritis. Mussels are also a brilliant source of vitamins. Plus they give you a shot of important minerals, such as zinc, which helps build immunity. Mussels even contain levels of iron and folic acid to rival red meats.
Where to buy, what to pay?
Supermarket fish counters stock mussels sporadically, but mainly steer you towards the pre-cooked sort. But what's the point of that? Rope-grown mussels are core stock in traditional fishmongers, and rapid turnover usually ensures they're fresh. (The shells should look clean and smooth, and be clamped firmly shut.) Pay £3.39-£3.79 a kilo. Since mussels are so filling, 1kg will easily serve four.
• Joanna Blythman is the author of What To Eat (Fourth Estate, £16.99). To order a copy for £11 with free UK p&p, go to guardianbookshop.co.uk
Mussel, potato and saffron stew
This is a great quick supper – but make sure the shells are clean, as they'll be wallowing around in the stew.
Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
20g butter
2 red onions, peeled and finely sliced
1 small red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
A pinch of salt
3 garlic cloves, crushed
A few threads of saffron
1 head fennel, trimmed and finely sliced
3 large red potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
800ml fish stock
Peel and juice of ½ orange
1 bay leaf
1kg mussels, shells cleaned, debearded
250ml white wine
Small handful of parsley, chopped
1 Heat half the oil and the butter in a large heavy-based pan and add the onions and chilli. Turn down the heat, add a small pinch of salt and cook for 10 minutes.
2 Add the garlic, saffron and fennel, turn up the heat and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly so the garlic doesn't brown, then add the potatoes and fish stock.
3 Take a 3cm strip of peel from the orange, add to the stew and then squeeze in the juice. Add the bay leaf and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the potatoes are just cooked.
4 Blend the stew for 2-3 short bursts to thicken it up. Leave on a low heat.
5 Heat the remaining oil in a large saucepan. Add the mussels. Stir for two minutes, add the wine, put the lid on and leave until the mussels open.
6 Transfer the mussels to the stew with a slotted spoon, discarding any unopened or empty shells, and pass the liquid from the pan into the stew through a fine sieve.
7 Add the parsley, season to taste and serve with a salad of grated carrot and spring onions, plus a chunk of bread.
• Rosie Sykes is head chef of Fitzbillies (fitzbillies.com) and co-author of The Kitchen Revolution (Ebury Press, £25). To order a copy for £19.99 with free UK p&p, go to guardianbookshop.co.uk
• This article was amended on 9 February 2013 to correct a reference to the long chain fatty acids EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid).
