Staffan and I had got some funny looks as we bounded out of the Icehotel. Everyone else was swaddled in boots and snowsuits, boarding snowmobiles or harnessing huskies; we were in tights, heading out for a run.
The Icehotel, the famous snow-sculpted retreat made afresh every year in Jukkasjärvi, 20 minutes from Kiruna, 200km north of the Arctic Circle, is 25 years old this winter. It’s always introducing new activities, and new for 2015 is a network of marked running trails. I had joined a trial “wellness winter weekend” that combines ice jogging and cross-country skiing with a trip to the new Aurora Spa at Camp Ripan on the outskirts of Kiruna (pine sauna, birch scrub, outdoor hot tub). Staffan, my guide, plotted the trails: 2½km, 5km and 10km routes. Feeling gung-ho, I’d suggested we hit the 10k.
After a few metres, I was cursing myself. Snow is a harsh mistress. It was like running on cold sand, every footfall a step in the dark, no knowing how your foot might slip or twist, how deep you might sink. The snow varied, from firm-yet-slippery tracks left by snowmobiles to knee-deep powder on untrodden hillsides.
“High knees, small steps!” Staffan advised. He was gallivanting like a caribou; I was more Arctic elephant. Studded grippers over my trainers gave some extra purchase but couldn’t combat the energy-sapping effect of the snow. And breathing the icy air was like sucking slush through a straw. My Darth-Vader wheeze broke the silence.
What to wear had been a worry, as I’d tried to imagine the sweatiness of running in the freezing cold of Lapland. It was -14C, so I’d need to wrap up – but wear too much and you sweat, and body heat is lost up to five times faster in wet clothes. I’d opted for socks (two pairs), thermals under running tights, a technical T-shirt, long-sleeved top, light jacket, hat and gloves. After five minutes I removed the gloves and jacket, and was tempted to take off more. The only time I felt a chill was when Staffan shook a snow-heavy branch to give me a “traditional spruce shower”.
It was hard work – but what a place to run. We passed cheery wooden houses in Jukkasjärvi village, and delved into Puimonen forest on a mixture of snowmobile trails and deep-snow off-road. There are coloured markers to show the way; without them, you’d be quickly confused.
“We have trolls here,” Staffan told me. “Illustrator John Bauer visited in the 19th century, and based his drawings of trolls on these woods.”
We started running uphill, for views over the village and Torne river, and I realised I loved this route – especially the downhill bits, when I felt the gay abandon of a child, running for running’s sake, sink-sliding into soft powder. Isn’t falling over a risk? “Yes,” Staffan confessed, “I fall sometimes.” But he said you usually just flop painlessly on to the wintery duvet.
By the end of the slowest, chilliest, sparkliest 10k I’ve ever completed, I felt I’d more-than-run, engaging rarely called-on muscles. Perhaps that’s why Toughest Ice, a Swedish obstacle-race organiser, has launched an Icehotel event. On 11 April, after the hotel has closed, it will host an 8k race over ice obstacles (entry £95).
Next day, after hitting the 5k trail alone, I decided those crazies could keep their race; I was off to the other extreme. At the Aurora Spa, I ran the gauntlet of scented saunas, birch and coffee scrubs, a breath-stealing ice-bucket challenge and an outdoor hot tub. My kind of obstacles.
• The trip was provided by Discover The World (01737 214 291, discover-the-world.co.uk). Its three-night Wellbeing Escape at the Icehotel costs from £1,260pp, with direct flights from Heathrow, a night in an Ice Room, spa visit, jogging and cross-country skiing. Departs 31 January, 7 and 28 February and 7 March
Five more places for a winter workout
Scotland
For the best chance of snow-running in the UK, head to the Cairngorms. Running The Highlands offers trips year-round, which can be tailored to your ability: a typical two-nighter includes two runs (60 minutes, 90 minutes) following different trails through the hills.
• From £175pp, including accommodation, 07768 378012; runningthehighlands.com
Dartmoor
Book a guided running weekend on the testing terrain of Dartmoor or the South West Coast Path. “If it snows,” says owner Ceri Rees, “the landscape will be even more spectacular.”
• From £130 for two days’ guided running, excluding accommodation, 07773 560 335, wildrunning.co.uk
Kent
GI Jane Bootcamp runs weekend workshops for women throughout the winter. A typical day includes pre-breakfast circuit training, boxing, bums and tums sessions, netball, running and an assault course.
• £399 including three nights’ accommodation, 020-8301 4353, gijanebootcamp.co.uk
Chamonix, France
Learn how to tackle some of Europe’s highest mountains in the toughest season on a week-long Chamonix Winter Trail Running break with Icicle (22-28 March, 12-18 April). Participants get navigation, safety and planning advice and technique coaching, runs take place on and off trails, and there’s a chance to try backcountry snow-shoe running.
• From £699, excluding flights, 01539 442217, icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk
Savoie, France
For an all-round winter workout, try a Snow Fitness Retreat with Adventures in the Alps. Over a week, guests can sample cross-country skiing, snow-shoeing, pilates, ski-touring, ice-climbing, skiing in Valmorel and La Plagne, and swimming. The base is a luxury chalet in the village of Grand Naves in the Isère valley.
• From £999pp, excluding flights, 020-7193 7660, adventuresinthealps.com
