I learned to surf in South Devon when I was 14 years old; I’d catch the train from Exeter down to Exmouth or Dawlish. Since then I’ve built my life around surfing. I now live in Croyde, a five-minute walk from the beach, and I can see the sea from my house. The first thing I do when I get up is check the conditions. I surf every day.

The feeling when you step off the land into the sea, into an untamed and wild environment, is beautiful. The speed, the power and the G-force as you do huge sweeping and swooping turns off the top of the wave is about as close as you can get to flying. It’s addictive. And the inside of a barrel, looking out at the world framed by water, is a special place to be.

Every wave is different, and there are countless waves out there, all over the world, that I want to ride. I’ve travelled a fair bit to expand my experiences, but the quality of the conditions and the waves in Britain is on a par with countries like Australia or Portugal. Some would argue it takes a special type of person to surf in Britain all year round, but it really isn’t that bad. Wetsuit technology has moved on massively. And I’m really lucky: I can be in the sea in winter, and within five minutes I’m in a hot shower.

Every surfer the world over has that broad-shouldered physique, and I’ve been told I have it, too. I spent my formative years paddling on the board, so it means I developed a powerful upper body. Everything I do is geared up to prolong my surfing: I don’t drink, I run every other day and I try to eat healthily.

Both my sons surf. My eldest (now 15) started surfing at three years old. My youngest is following in his footsteps and surfs more or less every day. I’m 55 and I will still run all the way down to the beach from my house, totally excited about what’s in store. If you look after yourself, age is not an issue.

My weekend workout

Hours surfed a day? Between one and three
Favourite surf spot? Croyde at low tide
Biggest wave? 15ft, in Guéthary, south of Biarritz
Pre-surf snack? A banana on my way to the beach
Sharks? Never seen a shark while I’ve been surfing

Five ways to get started: surfing

1 You can start surfing at any age. It’s thought to be a young person’s sport, but that is not true. There’s nothing stopping anyone of any age giving surfing a go.

2 Using the wrong equipment can be very frustrating. While a small board is manoeuvrable, as a learner you should always start on a longer board, because it is more stable.

3 To catch a wave, position yourself behind the white water. Start paddling as the wave approaches and, just before it breaks, pop up to your feet.

4 Getting from a prone paddling position, lying on your belly, to standing on the board in one smooth motion takes good core strength. But it’s easier in the sea than on dry land, as you can use the momentum of the water to your advantage.

5 Pretty much every beach in the country has a Surfing GB-recognised surf school. It’s worth signing up for lessons – you’ll pick up the basics faster, and learning in a group does a lot for your confidence.

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