The Col des Aravis is a phenomenal stretch of tarmac. Before the road cleaves between two jagged, Alpine peaks, it winds itself upwards for 1,498m, leaving an awesome vista in its wake. Lance Armstrong used to train here. It was the setting for Floyd Landis's epic Stage 17 win in the 2006 Tour De France. Every June sees 3,000 cyclists burn around the switchbacks in the Time-Megeve cyclosportive race. This is hallowed ground in cycling.
"You look like you're hanging off that bike," says Mark as he pulls alongside in his car, handing me an ice-cold bottle of water out of the window. "Nicky's picked the pace up so try and catch her on this last stretch." Nicky Hughes, GPM10's female team leader for this women's training weekend, races bikes for a living. I could catch her if I first removed both her wheels. But Mark's policy of using her as bait means I get up that ascent quicker than I thought possible. As I arrive panting at the top of the Col she is nonchalantly perusing postcards. "Good riding," she says with a grin. Praise indeed.
From their base in Chamonix, in the French Alps, GPM10 have been running performance training programmes for cyclists wishing to pit themselves against some of the toughest and most legendary of Europe's climbs for the past three years. It is an opportunity to ride like a pro. Support car, spare wheels, energy bars thrown at you whenever required and a bike mechanic on hand to deal with any niggling rattle or major crash. All you have to do is focus on cycling better. But until now, any women wishing to up the ante in their riding had to do it as a minority in a group of men.
The sight of 10 pairs of toned thighs shooting up a mountainside may be spectacular but it does little for your morale. Which is not to say I find myself in half-hearted female company. These girls mean business. On the first night, as I stock up on calories in a Chamonix pizzeria I find myself sat at a table with two ironman competitors, an amateur racer and a doctor who has just got back from a sportive week in Italy. But all seem convinced that a single-sex event was required.
Chamonix local Dawn Wood said: "I wouldn't have come out on this weekend if it hadn't been for women only. I feel so much more confident and comfortable. It's mainly blokes who ride around here – I just don't seem to find any women to train with." If there's anywhere for the battle of the sexes to materialise it's on a 14km climb – no matter what anyone says, overtaking a bloke on one of those is a sweet victory. Even if he is 80. This trip was always going to be interesting.
Forget bike geek, GPM10 is more bike chic. The weekend starts with a stay in the gloriously modern Hotel Eden in Flegere, possibly the only hotel in the valley which doesn't succumb to the temptation to hang a wooden pair of skis on the wall. Upon arrival, GPM10 owner Mark Kneep sizes me up for one of his fleet of Serotta bikes which clients are able to test ride for the duration of their training. I eventually find myself straddling a titanium/carbon Ottrott, which at about £5,000, is not something I want to ride over a pothole on. Taking it for a little spin I ride straight over a pothole. "How's the bike feel?" asks Mark as I return. "Yep, yep, great," I gulp.
The plan for the weekend was to ride 100km to Lake Annecy via Megève and Thônes and then 120km back to Chamonix via the Col du Marais on day two. It involves around 2,000m of climbing per day - ride as hard or as easy as you like but if Mark decides there's not enough time for ice-cream then there's not enough time for ice-cream.
Riding in an alpine environment is inspiration in itself but knowing those roads have been ridden by every great name in cycling is even better. Finish lines are sprayed across the top of summits, "allez, allez!" is scrawled on walls, and descents you have only ever seen before on Tour de France coverage unravel before you. Couple that with Mark yelling at you to sprint finish as he drives up behind and is it any wonder you ride the best you've ever ridden? But then cycling in France is such a tradition it would be rude not to.
For anyone not used to racing, the trip is a great introduction. For example, proper racers do not stop to take photos of alpine waterfalls. When riding as part of a pack, make a hand signal before swerving to avoid a hole in the road or someone will get hurt. And if tired, tuck yourself in behind someone else and get dragged along in their airflow.
There is a superb section of the trip from the top of the Aravis down and then up again to Megève where your legs can find a rhythm of their own. And Lake Annecy is a great place to warm up tired thighs on day two as the route follows a shoreline cyclepath for around 20km before a gentle slog up the Col du Marais. Taking into account the odd burst lung, at no point during the 48 hours were the views less than breathtaking. Two weeks of constant rainfall had left Chamonix and its surrounds lush and verdant.
"I like having women on the trips," says Mark. "They respond really well to training. Women want to test themselves in the same way as the men and we just prepare them for that in the best way. These weekends are a chance for women to see there are others out there who want to ride as they do."
I wanted to overtake 80-year-old men on a long climb. There's one thing I can tick off my list.
Getting there
The next female-tailored trip is on the September 7-9 taking in the classic Cols of the Tour de France and costs £295. Go to gpm10.com for details.
Hotel Eden: hoteleden-chamonix.com; +33 (0)450 53 18 43
Serotta bikes: serotta.com
Susan flew with easyJet from London Gatwick to Geneva and back. Prices start from £54.98rtn including taxes.
