Some views you can never tire of and the one from my veranda overlooking Castara Bay, on Tobago’s west coast, is among them. At sunrise, giant frigatebirds swoop over the azure calm of the Caribbean sea, while yellow-breasted bananaquits hustle for space on the hanging bamboo birdtable; in the hazy afternoon heat, fishermen reel nets onto the pretty curve of golden sand, selling their catch straight from the boats; by night, fireflies glow, distant lights twinkle, the moon sparkles on the water. And all around the cloak of rainforest tumbles down the hillside to the coast, hugging the village, buzzing with the sounds of nature.
Just 26 miles long by six wide, the island is the smaller half of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. And while its wealthier big sister is all about industry and all-night parties, it’s the promise of a simpler Caribbean with small, eco-hideaways that’s lured me here.
Castara Retreats’ 15 treehouse-style, self-catering lodges melt seamlessly into the landscape. British owner Steve Felgate fell in love with the village while on holiday with his family years ago and teamed up with local legend Porridge to open their first three apartments here back in 2000; the latest opened in December. Built of cypress and cedar wood with vast terraces angled to soak up those views, it’s the ultimate in rustic chic. The gardens are alive with birds (74 species have been spotted), guinea-pig like agouti scuttle by, and the sound of the sea lulls you to sleep. For the first time this season, yoga teachers and massage therapists are on hand should you need more help to relax, too.
While there’s a restaurant and bar serving fresh cocktails and enticing food, they purposefully don’t do breakfast. “We want guests to go into the village and interact with the people who live here and spend money elsewhere, too,” says Steve. So mornings begin with a wander down to Cheno’s Café, where coconut bake and salt fish sets us up for the day.
We slip easily into the laidback rhythm of village life: walks to the nearby waterfall, ocean swimming (stingrays come right up to the shore – there are plans for a marine park in the pipeline), buying corn and jerk chicken from Sardine’s barbecue stand, liming (hanging out) over a cold beer. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Olga and Janet bake pumpkin loaf and coconut roll to order in the old clay oven. Wednesday means lunchtime rotis at Shirma’s and it’s African drumming night at the Boat House.
There’s a real sense that the tourist dollar trickles down to all corners of the village and the local tourist association, set up in 2014, keeps growing with members from B&Bs to cafes working together to improve the visitor experience. “It’s a great example of a community genuinely being involved in tourism, which is why people are so welcoming,” says Steve.
Tearing yourself away from Castara isn’t easy, but when you do, allow plenty of time. Though tiny, Tobago’s mountainous terrain means getting anywhere can take a while as you pass perfect beaches, pretty villages and go through vast swathes of rainforest (first protected by the French back in 1776, making it the oldest protected forest in the western hemisphere).
On the unspoilt north-east coast, Charlotteville – a sleepy 1950s throwback – is a charmer, with old guys playing dominoes, fishermen on the dock and school children chasing chickens on the village green. Our taxi crawls along as Rasta driver Kenneth slows to wave and shout hello to everyone we pass, telling us the history of the island (which has changed hands 32 times between the British, French, Dutch and Courlanders), stopping to point out the birdlife.
I’d not had myself down as a twitcher, but people come to Tobago just for the birdwatching and, on a hike into the 3,958-hectare Forest Reserve with expert guide Newton George, I learn about the 220-odd species found here and spot plenty, from the rufous-tailed jacamar to the long-tailed motmot. At the Hummingbird Gallery at Newton’s home, dozens of the tiny creatures feed on nectar, wings a-blur.
The next day we wade through rivers on a hike to Twin River Falls (one of the least-visited of the island’s many waterfalls) and let the cool rush of water pummel our backs – the only other people are a Trinidadian family on a break from the bustling sister isle.
As we head south-west, the rugged landscape gives way to flatter land, and Scarborough, the island’s capital, topped by Fort King George, built by the British in 1777. This is the where most tourist development is found with bigger hotels dotted along the coast, although even at touristy, postcard-perfect Pigeon Point, the island’s natural beauty is paramount.
For anyone interested in an unusual experience, night-time stand-up-paddleboarding (standuppaddletobago.com) through the bioluminescent waters is one not to miss – sadly, our trip is during full moon, which rules it out. Instead by day, we paddle past a shore lined with mangroves and take a speedboat to snorkel less-visited reefs – Tobago boasts some of the best diving and snorkelling in the Caribbean – and turtles, manta ray and a whole host of marine life keep us bewitched.
You don’t come to Tobago for the nightlife, but this is the Caribbean and there’s always a party somewhere. Sunday School at Buccoo – not the religious kind – makes for an entertaining evening. A steel pan band kicks off the action and tourists and locals party under the stars, or dance ballroom-style in the covered market area, fuelled by rum and macaroni bake with lobster from the rows of stalls. For a real slice of the action, stay beyond midnight when the tourists leave and serious partying begins.
It’s lots of fun, but it’s the sound of birds at dawn and lazy evenings watching the sun go down over Castara beach that stick in my mind. In the queue for that Wednesday roti, I get chatting to eight-year-old Malik. What did tourists like best about his island, I wondered? “The sun, the beach, the forest, relaxing,” he shrugged. “Maybe, just that Tobago go-slow.” I doubt a marketing whizz could’ve thought of a more suitable slogan.
• The trip was provided by the Tobago tourist board (visittobago.gov.tt). Rooms at Castara Retreats (castararetreats.com) start at £80 a night for two. Flights were provided by Virgin Atlantic (virgin-atlantic.com), which flies from Gatwick direct to Tobago from £595 return
More places to stay in Tobago
Harris’s Guesthouse
Charismatic guide and former lifeguard Harris McDonald runs Jungle Tours and takes guests into the rainforest, snorkelling and even partying at Sunday School. His five-bedroom guesthouse in Canaan, near Scarborough, is a colourful, chilled place with a kitchen for guests and sweet garden. Harris is a great host and a font of island knowledge.
• Doubles from £36, harris-jungle-tours.com
Kariwak Village
This holisitic oasis, near the airport, has nine cabanas and 18 rooms, plus lush gardens with a waterfall, hammocks and an ozonated pool. The palm-thatched yoga shala was opened by the Dalai Lama no less, and there are daily yoga and tai chi classes and massages. The kitchen serves some of the best food in Tobago (open to non-guests). There’s a shuttle bus to the beach and live music at weekends.
• Doubles from £146 B&B. kariwak.com
Blue Waters Inn
This peaceful hideaway is on the north-east coast, just outside Speyside. Divers love the great reefs and bird-lovers will find plenty in the 46-acre gardens and nearby Bird of Paradise Island sanctuary. They serve a mean cocktail and good Caribbean-fushion cuisine at the laidback restaurant.
• Doubles from £138 B&B, bluewatersinn.com
